The purl stitch is one of the basic stitches to learn when loom knitting. The combination of the knit stitch and purl stitch can yield a plethora of beautiful designs. If you are barely learning to loom knit, I highly recommend getting acquainted with the Purl Stitch.
The purl stitch creates the small noose/bump like stitches on your knitted fabric.
Note: I already had a Purl stitch video, created back in 2011, technology has advanced just a tad and videos are a little clearer now, thus an update.
LC=Cable over 2 stitches, crosses left (see instructions below)
INSTRUCTIONS
Leg
Cast on 24 sts, prepare to work in the round.
Rnd 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 4: *LC, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Repeat Rnds 1-4: 2 more times
Next 5 rnds: k to end of rnd.
Heel—follow Heel Instructions
Sole and Instep
Next rnd: k to end of rnd.
Rep last rnd until bootie measures approx 3-3.5″ from the back of heel.
Remove with Gather Bind Off method.
Weave ends in.
Note: these booties have a gathered bind off method. If you prefer to have a shaped toe, you can repeat the Heel instructions once the booties measure about 2 inches from the back of the heel. Then you will need to do a Kitchener stitch to seam the toes invisibly. The Simple Baby Booties demonstrate how to close the Kitchener stitch (video in my YouTube feed).
Left Cross (LC) Instructions
Step 1: Take working yarn behind peg 1 (you are skipping peg 1).
Step 2: Knit peg 2 and place stitch on cable needle and hold it to the center of the loom.
Step 3: Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2 (leaving peg 1 empty).
Step 4: Place stitch from cable needle on peg 1.
Step 5: Knit peg 2.
German Short-Row Instructions (24-peg loom—heel over 12 pegs).
How-to short row: knit the peg, bring the working yarn from the back to the front of the peg, gently tug on the yarn and bring it to the adjacent peg to knit.
Row 1: Knit from peg 1 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 12.
Row 2: Knit from peg 11 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 1.
Row 3: Knit from peg 2 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.
Row 4: Knit from peg 10 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 2.
Row 5: Knit from peg 3 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.
Row 6: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.
Row 7: Knit from peg 4 to peg 9. Short-row on peg 9.
Row 8: Knit from peg 9 to peg 4. Short-row on peg 4.
Row 9: Knit from peg 5 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.
Row 10: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.
Row 11: Knit from peg 4 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.
Row 12: Knit from peg 10 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 2.
Row 13: Knit from peg 3 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 12.
Row 14: Knit from peg 11 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 1.
Row 15: Knit from peg 2 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 13.
Row 16: Knit from peg 12 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 24.
You will have the short-row on pegs 13 and 24. When working this round on the next round, treat the stitches as normal.
Last year, I shared the “Just Peachy Baby Hat” but at the time, due to grad school, I didn’t have time to create any tutorials for it. I finally had a chance to sit down and create one. I hope you find it useful.
Talk about being behind on projects! I have had this recorded for a bit but I couldn’t find the time to do the editing (the part that takes forever!). Here we go, hope you enjoy it. I am, at this very moment, traveling to go on vacation for a few days and I promised myself that I needed to have this pattern published before I left.
I wanted to have this done last week but I got sick and all my plans went out the window. But, better late than never. I have included a video for your reference.
Note: you will maintain a garter stitch edge on the first 2 stitches and last 2 stitches. Proceed as follows. These are the Stitch Pattern Rows (as referred on the video as the 10 stitch pattern rows).
Row 4 (Row 1 of Stitch Pattern): k2, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 5 (Row 2 of Stitch Pattern): p2, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 6 (Row 3 of Stitch Pattern): k2, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 7 (Row 4 of Stitch Pattern): p2, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 8 (Row 5 of Stitch Pattern): k2, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 9 (Row 6 of Stitch Pattern): p2, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 10 (Row 7 of Stitch Pattern): k2, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11 (Row 8 of Stitch Pattern): p2, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 12 (Row 9 of Stitch Pattern): k2, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 13 (Row 10 of Stitch Pattern): p2, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat last 10 rows until item measures approx 21 inches from cast on edge.
Next row: k2tog, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. (13 sts remain on the loom). Have decreased the edge stitches from 2 down to 1 on one side.
Next row: p2tog, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1. (12 sts remain on the loom). Have decreased the edge stitches from 2 down to 1. Both sides now match with only 1 edge stitch.
Next row: k1, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row:p1, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Continue as follows:
Next row: k1, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *p1, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row:p1, *k2, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
Next row: k1, *k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1.
Next row: p1, *k4, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1.
You will repeat the last 10 rows until the tie measures approx 56-57 inches from cast on edge.
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all yarn tail ends. Steam block.
I have been wanting to get our original loomy sheep redesigned and I finally had a chance to do it last week. My friend, Cynthia from Green Couch Designs, has been designing all of my logos and banners since I started loom knitting. I love her fresh, quirky, and fun designs. Look at how fun my little sheepy looks now.
Before felting: base 10.5” wide x 5” deep ( 12” High)
After felting: 11”(bottom width) x 3.5”(bottom depth) x 8” (high) top tapers to 9” wide
The strap is knit flat with garter stitch. 20” in length.
Notes:
The bag is knitted flat (see schematic). A How To’s page is included for your convenience.
Basic knowledge of loom knitting is required.
Abbreviations
SS=
Single Stitch (using the ewrap stitch)
P=
Purl stitch
BO=
Bind Off/Cast Off
St(s)=
stitch(es)
**This pattern was originally released in 2005. It is available via Ravelry download our through this blog.
DIRECTIONS
Cast on 38 stitches.
Rows 1-9: Work in SS.
Row 10: Increase one stitch at each end, increasing by 2 pegs (e-wrap the empty peg)
Repeat Rows 1-10: until you have 46sts total on the loom.
Next: Work 10 rows in SS. (50 rows total).
Next: BO 8 stitches at beginning of next row, knit to end in SS. (38sts remain).
Next: BO 8 stitches at beginning of next row, knit to the end in SS. (30sts remain).
*Next row: SS.
Next row: P to end of row. *
Repeat from * to * 15 more times. (16 garter stitch ridges, 32 rows).
Next row: Cast on 8 stitches at beginning of next row, work in SS to end of row. (38sts on loom).
Next row: Cast On 8sts at beginning of next row, work in SS to end of row. (46sts on loom).
**Next: Work 9 rows in SS.
Next row: Decrease one stitch at each end and work the row in SS (bring the stitch from the outer peg and place it on the adjacent peg, treat both loops on the peg as 1).**
Repeat from ** to ** 4 times.
Next: Work 10 rows in SS. (38sts remain on loom).
ASSEMBLY
Arrange your bag so that both right sides are facing each other. Seam the sides closed. On the bottom, you will be forming the base by seaming the tips of the body of the bag down to meet in the short side of the base. Weave in all your yarn ends into the wrong side off the bag.
Turn your bag right side out. It should look like the picture below.
HANDLE
Cast on 8 pegs. Loom knit in garter stitch a 20” long handle. Remove with flat removal method.
FINISHING
Seam it to the sides of the bag. Make sure it is seamed straight. Tips to make the handle stronger: sew a ribbon to the inside of the handle when it is felted. Make a tube and insert bias tape prior to felting.
FELTING
Time to Felt It!
Felting Instructions
Items needed to felt:
Zippered Pillow Case
Eucalan Woolwash* (recommended) or Shampoo
Top-loader washer
Caution!Turn the washer machine off before reaching into it.
Set the washer to the smallest setting, regular cycle, and hot water. Add one tablespoon of Eucalan woolwash or 1 TBLS of Shampoo. However, using the Eucalan will save you the rinsing of the item by hand and it makes the item smell better-wet wool does not smell too nice.
Place the items to be felted in the zippered pillowcase. Close it. Throw it in the washer. Put in the two pairs of jeans to aid in agitation. I do not recommend putting towels in, as these may leave fuzz in your felted items. Start the washer.
Check the felted items frequently. Stop the machine completely before placing your hand inside. If additional felting is required, reset the washer and continue felting the bag. Check the progress closely, and shape your bag as the felting process continues by pulling at the corners, and shaping the strap. Item is felted, when it feels firm and the stitches are indistinguishable. Keep felting the bag until you are completely satisfied. It may take a few cycles. Do not let the machine go into the rinse and spin cycle, as this will create creases in the bag that are very difficult to remove.
When the item reaches the desired look, remove it from the zippered pillow case, place it between towels and squeeze out as much water as you can. Shape the bag again and follow blocking instructions.
Blocking—the Finishing Touches
Stretch your damp bag over a suitable sized form. If nothing that resembles the shape is available, use a plastic bag and place plastic bags inside to give it its form. The felted item should fit over the fitted form snuggly. Shape all the corners, and strap, you may have to tug on the strap so it lines up. Make sure that everything looks the way you want it to look. Feel free to pull at it. Do not let it dry until you are completely satisfied with the way it looks. Once it looks the way you desire. Let it air dry completely, it may take up to 2 full days to dry. Keep shaping it during the drying process if you so desire.
Basic Loom Knitting How to’s
Garter Stitch: Created by knitting one row of e-wrap, one row of purl stitch. These 2 rows =1 stitch of garter stitch.
Flat Knitting: Wrap each peg until you get to the last peg you need to wrap. Wrap the last peg twice wrap back to the first peg. Knit over. In this bag, you will knit on 30 pegs. You can also view a mini-movie of knitting a flat piece at http://www.decoraccentsinc.com
Flat or Basic Removal Method: (the one used in the Rowan Bag flat-knit version): You will need a crochet hook. Remove loop from the first peg with a crochet hook, crochet 1 chain, and pass it through the back stitch. Remove loop from the next peg, and pass it through the back stitch on the crochet hook. Continue until all loops are removed from the pegs.
Decrease Stitches: To decrease stitches on a flat piece, you need to move the loop from the very last outside peg, and place it on the peg adjacent to it. Wrap your loom as usual.
Increase Stitches (an alternate method to the e-wrap method in the pattern): To increase stitches on a flat piece, you need to move the loop on the very last peg, to the empty peg right next to it. You have now one empty peg. Lift a stitch from the bottom V stitch. Place it on the empty peg. Wrap your loom making sure that all the pegs have 2 strands on them.
The following instructions came from one of my early tutorial files that were located in my original blog. You can find the file at this link.
I-cords are a great way to embellish your knitted items. I-cords can be used around necklines, hems, and around any flat item to add a little touch. My favorite use of I-cords are for bag handles as they are very sturdy and once felted make a very strong handle.
In this instruction pamphlet, you will learn how to make a 3-stitch I-cord on a knitting loom.
I would like to express my gratitude to Lori Lemieux for showing us how to make the I-cord on a knitting loom.
I-cords are very easy to do. All you need is a loom with 3 pegs for a 3 stitch I-cord, or 4 pegs for a 4-stitch I-cord.
3 stitch I-cord
Materials:
Knitting loom with at least 3 pegs
Knitting Tool
Yarn
Notes:
I-cord is knitted with the Flat Stitch
Knit refers to the flat stitch
Work the loom in a clockwise direction (right to left)
Set up row: Cast on 3 pegs.
Step 1: With working yarn coming from the third peg (figure 2), run the yarn behind the pegs to the 1st peg (figure 3).
Step 2: Bring yarn to the front of the loom (figure 4), and knit the 3 pegs. Knit the 2nd peg first, then the 1st, last the 3rd. Tip: Pull on the cord every couple of rows to set the stitches.
Repeat steps 1 & 2 until the cord measures the desired length.
Bind off:
Cut yarn leaving a 4 inch tail
Step 1: Move the loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit over.
Step 2: Move the loop on peg 1 to peg 2.
Step 3: Move the loop on peg 3 to peg 2. Knit over.
Step 4: With working yarn, e-wrap peg 2. Knit over.
Step 5: Pull the last loop off the peg and pull on the yarn tail end.
Final Step: Hide the yarn tail end by using a tapestry needle.
